DRESS
DRESS
DRESS is the multi-disciplinary label/practice of Julie Wilkins, using capsule fashion collections, words and images to explore project based themes.  Julie records and releases music as The Electra Woods, and was previously the designer/director of UK fashion label FUTURE CLASSICS.

CRISIS CAPSU­LE 02: 
SOME SENSE OF STRUCTURE

The habit of taking apart, rotating and de-constructing things - of never settling on a form, of continual questioning - does not make for a stable life. 

 

 

 

 

DRESS set 03 - Stage 02: Long Sleeves form a Bow

 
 

A) 10 METRES EACH/ NAVY PRINT SERIES­

The series is made using 10m each of two end of line remnant print fabrics in Navy/White, chosen in honour of my Capricorn Grandma who would liked and worn similar as formal/Sunday best and who kept a beautiful, useful, remnant cupboard. 
5 styles/sets, designs limited by total fabric available.

 

04) Broken Dress Jacket

Dress Jacket body created from a copy of a ripped 1930’s day dress, up-scaled and deep darted back down to narrow fit, with detached High Pleated Sleeves and a frilled hem panel, pleated from the raw edged remnants left after all the other dress parts were cut.

 

 

 

 

 

05) Inside-out Over-sized Emerging/disappearing Structure Skirt                       

Skirt drawn onto and cut from one continuous piece of fabric folded in half, with waist band, pleats and surface side seams added to form a one size fits all adjustable-waist skirt. Part unfinished, raw & selvedge edged.

Classic short sleeve, soft-tailored dress up-scaled to one size fits all proportion, for universal wear-ability. Dresses are all collapse-able and come in sets with supporting add-ons (sleeves, additional panels). The stages of collapse and interplay of panels and parts allow for multiple variations of wear, giving each dress several identities.

 

02) Inside-out Oversize Collapsing Dress/Set           

Dress set made using reverse of fabric with all French seams and dart detail to outside. 2 part set, Dress and Shoulder panel with Sleeve, allows for 3 stages/variations

 
 

03) Emerging/disappearing Structure Dress/Set                       

Dress drawn onto and cut from one continuous piece of fabric folded in half, with head hole, darts and surface side seams added. Unfinished raw & selvedge edged.

Long Sleeves are stitched onto the front surface at sleeve head only, allowing dress to be worn sleevelessly or long sleeved.

Dress set includes extra set of high gathered sleeves, based on the shape of a left over skirt panel, allowing it to go through 3 stages of wear/identity.

Dress 03: Stage 0/1 Long Sleeves can be worn or left to hang/sleeveless

 

Dress 03: Stage 1

 
 

Dress Set 03 - Stage 02

DRESS set 03 - Stage 02: Long Sleeves form a Bow

 

DRESS 03: Stage 3, Long Sleeves form a Bow, Second Set of Sleeve are added with poppers

 

Dress 03: Stage 3

 
 

DRESS 01) Over-size Collapsing Dress Set                       

Dress set includes extra Shoulder/Sleeve panel and separate set of long sleeves. 4 part set, allows for 3/4 stages/variations.

 

Dress set 01: Stage 1

Dress set 01: variation

Dress set 01: variation

 
 
 

In a crisis why do we cling to the habitual modes that may have caused the crisis in the first place?   

Nostalgia for the traditional dress form as touchstone to gender, identity and security. Navy Blue as the Pink of England. Home sewing. Pattern cutting 101: going back to formal basics in order to subvert them. 

 

B) THE 10 METRES OF NAVY POLYESTER EXPERIMENT

A classic, fitted short sleeve soft-tailored dress with pencil skirt, collapses and twists and is supported by a replica of itself. Divisions and variations thereof. Series made using 10 metres of remnant polyester jersey. 4 Designs, limited by total fabric available.

 

 

1. Crisis/Support Dress

 

Toile for Crisis/Support Dress

 
 

1) Crisis/Support Dress

02) Collapse/Support Bodice, 03) Oversize Split Dress Skirt